Slovenia
MIDGET GEM
You can play word games in Slovenia. Discard a few letters fore and aft and you’ll find L-O-V-E. And with all those k’s, j’s and z’s in the language, your average Slovene puts in some pretty decent Scrabble scores. But one game that clearly does have a future here is golf.
In a country roughly half the size of Switzerland, Slovenia now boasts 10 courses of varying degrees of difficulty, each with its own distinctive character. According to the Slovenian Golf Federation, there are currently 6,000 registered club golfers out of a population of 2 million. But with the quality of these courses and the country’s proximity to the UK, the demand for golf here is not confined to home-grown enthusiasts.
Ask the average Brit about Slovenia and you’ll probably get a quizzical look. “Somewhere in Eastern Europe?” “Lots of grim buildings?” “Lousy food?” Well, try actually going there and you’ll experience something very different indeed. Bordered by Italy, Austria, Hungary and Croatia, this country of 20,000 square kilometres feels more Western Europe than East. Over half its surface area is covered with trees and there’s a strong Alpine influence, both in the mountainous views and the architecture.
Slovenia is part of what used to be the Socialist Federal Republic of Yugoslavia, the state that existed from the end of the Second World War until it disintegrated during the conflicts of the 1990’s. Gaining independence in 1991, Slovenia is now a member of the European Union, NATO and takes on the Presidency of the EU Council next year.
With just 46km of coastline (1 inch per inhabitant), beach holidays have their limitations here, but the countryside has much to offer. The Alpine views are stunning, with Triglav (‘three heads’) the highest peak at 2864 metres and a national symbol on the country’s flag and coat of arms. The climate permits skiing in the winter and with summer temperatures averaging in the low twenties, the golf is very pleasant indeed.
At the invitation of the Slovenian Tourist Board I recently sampled some of the country’s golf courses and what an impressive collection it is too. First on the itinerary was Bled, dating back to 1937 and the oldest course in Slovenia. Just 5 minutes’ drive from Lake Bled and about 45 minutes from the capital Ljubljana, the course nestles at the foot of the Alps with virtually every hole offering views of beautiful snow-dusted peaks.
At 6,300 yards from the regular tees, the course puts a premium on accuracy rather than length. But the challenge is patently fair, there are plenty of birdie opportunities and somehow you feel that more of the holes are played downhill than up! The course planner that accompanies your green fee features not only hole descriptions but a profile of the birds one can expect to see, including the splendidly named ‘Falco subbuteo’.
And after the round Bled offers not one but two Alpine-style clubhouses, both extremely comfortable with excellent food and friendly service. Both buildings offer accommodation, making them ideal for parties of up to 26 golfers.
Next on the agenda was Arboretum, a challenging tree-lined course about 30 minutes’ North of Ljubljana. Very short at 6,000 yards off the back tees, the course nevertheless presents an interesting challenge. Tall pine trees flank every hole and in most cases a well-placed iron off the tee is the smart option. The course undulates, weaving between trees, lakes, bunkers and ditches and the sloping greens allow for some testing pin placements.
Like Bled, the course was beautifully presented with perfect lies on the fairways (at least when you’re on them) and pristine putting surfaces. The natural beauty of the place is consuming – a deer sauntered across our path as we prepared to start the round.
An indication of the enthusiasm with which Slovenes have embraced the game was the intense activity on the practice range. Virtually every tee block and practice green was occupied, with everyone from local juniors to the National Youth Squad. The emphasis on youth is hugely encouraging and augers well for the game’s future here. My playing partner at Arboretum, head of the Golf Federation, proudly explained how two of his country’s best prospects were 3 and 4 years old respectively!
Sadly, time restricted us and prevented visits to the other 8 courses. To the South West lies the Lipica course, an excellent 9 hole layout known for its year-round golf. If you play this one, take time out to visit the Lipica Stud, famous for breeding the magnificent white Lipizzaner horses. To the North, the course at Ptuj features a Sawgrass-style island green and the most modern spa facilities in what is the oldest town in Slovenia. And the nearby course at Slovenske Konjice weaves through vineyards on the edge of the impressive Pannonian Plain.
And what of Slovenian culture? Well, there’s rather a lot of it. And some of it was on show for our Gala Dinner at Ljubljana Castle, a splendid location overlooking the city and accessed by road or funicular railway. After a theatrical welcome from a group of dancers, jugglers and fire eaters, the main event featured, amongst others, the hugely talented Anja Bukovec, a classically trained violinist with her own distinctive style.
The city itself is amazingly cosmopolitan, but Slovenia’s proximity and affinity with Western Europe means that English is widely spoken, particularly among the younger generation. The architecture is most attractive, reminiscent of Paris in parts, and roadside cafes abound. Local cuisine is varied due to the country’s geography. You’ll come across everything from black pudding to stallion steak, and its 20,000 hectares of vineyards produce some very palatable wines. Particularly memorable was a small restaurant down a side street. No menu was produced. Instead, it was more of a “what-would-you-like-our-chef-to-prepare?” kind of approach. And very nice it was too.
Slovenia only recently converted to the Euro and even now shopkeepers have to think carefully when dishing out the change. But for a country little more than 2 hours away from the UK, this compact European gem offers great value for money and a huge variety of sporting and cultural activities. Just don’t challenge anyone to a game of Scrabble!
For more information about this article, contact Andrew Thorp at The BiG Network (‘Business in Golf’) on 0161 749 7000 or 07968 083376. andrew.thorp@thebignetwork.co.uk
Or visit...
www.golfarboretum.si
www.golf.bled.si
www.slovenia.info